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TB and n2o
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red97sc2
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2004 10:52 pm    Post subject: TB and n2o Reply with quote

Does having a modded TB help in a n2o setup? I've searched around but could not find anything that mentioned it's particular usage in a n2o setup.

Thanks!
Red
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Rear-Vue






PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 1:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i believe any and all breathing mods help no2, turbo etc. n/a opening up making it easier for air to get thru helps.
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poc301






PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 3:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nah. Its being ingested either way.
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red97sc2
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 4:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

poc301 wrote:
Nah. Its being ingested either way.


How about the N/A end of driving the SL2? Without using the juice? I've heard alot of points both good and bad, and using the butt dyno. Anyone have their opinions?
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S.Bretz






PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My thoughts with n2o and the tbody.

You can use a stock, homemade tapper/funnel, a 55mm if you can machine one, or an sps 52mm gimmick.

You will definatley notice a difference when the bottle is on...but there are things goning on that you might not even realize.

I'll start with the stock ... it does well at doing its job, fairly decent air distribution, but lacks up top flow.

The homemade deal (if done correctly) will help out some on top by helpping funnel, and it will give you the best distribution to all the cylinders. (I'll explain at toward the end).

The 55 will probably net the most hp, but will lack the distribution properties on the home made and the sps tb

the sps will give the second best distribution or possibeltie the stock in distribution, while still helping funnel air in for power, but makeing more power at higher rpms then the homemade tb.

Having the tb on 1 side of the manifold sucks. One of these days,when I get time, I will completely remake anintake manifold that will flow every evenly (+/- .5-1% of each other). To help evenly distribut the charge air to all the cylinders, you can taper the intake plenum down as it goes to the last cylinder, wich has to be a taper of the proper degree and the top of the inside of the manifold's plenum has to be a certain minimum distance over the inlet on the last intake runner. Or you can slow the air down as it enters the plenum...this means making the plenum a larger diamenter then the tb ( that is why the satun intake plenum expands after the tb)....so with that said all 4 tb will have different speeds that air enters and a greater differense in velocity CHANGE...

55mm....least change in speed
stock....has more change in air speed
52....has more change the the stock at hig rpm ( the stock might beat in lower rpms)
homemade will have the greatest change in velocities

the stock and 52 are probably about the same on air distibution, but I put the 52 over the stock since there is more tapper from the throttle plate to he back of the tb.
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red97sc2
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 5:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

S.Bretz wrote:
My thoughts with n2o and the tbody.

You can use a stock, homemade tapper/funnel, a 55mm if you can machine one, or an sps 52mm gimmick.

You will definatley notice a difference when the bottle is on...but there are things goning on that you might not even realize.

I'll start with the stock ... it does well at doing its job, fairly decent air distribution, but lacks up top flow.

The homemade deal (if done correctly) will help out some on top by helpping funnel, and it will give you the best distribution to all the cylinders. (I'll explain at toward the end).

The 55 will probably net the most hp, but will lack the distribution properties on the home made and the sps tb

the sps will give the second best distribution or possibeltie the stock in distribution, while still helping funnel air in for power, but makeing more power at higher rpms then the homemade tb.

Having the tb on 1 side of the manifold sucks. One of these days,when I get time, I will completely remake anintake manifold that will flow every evenly (+/- .5-1% of each other). To help evenly distribut the charge air to all the cylinders, you can taper the intake plenum down as it goes to the last cylinder, wich has to be a taper of the proper degree and the top of the inside of the manifold's plenum has to be a certain minimum distance over the inlet on the last intake runner. Or you can slow the air down as it enters the plenum...this means making the plenum a larger diamenter then the tb ( that is why the satun intake plenum expands after the tb)....so with that said all 4 tb will have different speeds that air enters and a greater differense in velocity CHANGE...

55mm....least change in speed
stock....has more change in air speed
52....has more change the the stock at hig rpm ( the stock might beat in lower rpms)
homemade will have the greatest change in velocities

the stock and 52 are probably about the same on air distibution, but I put the 52 over the stock since there is more tapper from the throttle plate to he back of the tb.


Now THIS is an answer!

Thanks ALOT! Very Happy

Red
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S.Bretz






PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 6:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ohh.. I for got to say that in my opinion, you would want the tb that help evenly distribute the the air the best...so see about getting a stock plate with the tappered cone gimmcik.... Where can he get one, does MPM sell them with the stock throttle plate?
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graniteguy






PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nitrous will give greater rewards than any other mods. Rather than spending money to aid in a future nitrous install, spend the money on nitrous first. Nitrous> TB or catback or header, or etc. This is if you are serious about getting nitrous.

The longer you wait, the slower you will stay Very Happy .
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red97sc2
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 4:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

graniteguy wrote:
Nitrous will give greater rewards than any other mods. Rather than spending money to aid in a future nitrous install, spend the money on nitrous first. Nitrous> TB or catback or header, or etc. This is if you are serious about getting nitrous.

The longer you wait, the slower you will stay Very Happy .


I think the only other mod I'm going to do before the n2o is a rear disk conversion. TY3sc has said it can be done for $125 and with my connections with a GM junkyard I may just be able to do it for that small price.
From what I've heard and read it's a wise conversion, both for a n2o or other type of F/I: More speed needs better stopping power.
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Nikongod






PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there are countrys where it is illegal to have a turbocharged car if it does not have 4 wheel discs. freaky, hunh?
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S.Bretz






PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I guess some of use won't make it threw inspections/customs then huh?
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hustler






PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont see why, my saturn with stock brakes and rear drums just rocks.
the car is soo light and hardly any wheel slide if any if i mash em.
imo, i dont think a saturn will need better brakes to compensate for the power increase.

now my nova, a mildly built 355 with 4 wheel manual drums and 185 front tires ...thats a chore to stop LOL

cya
brad
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Bigbadbert






PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those of us with front disk only, its worth it to upgrade. And it doesnt matter how well your car stops now....if something happens you need to stop sooner, because most likely youll be going faster than you should be.
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Nefarious






PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
From what I've heard and read it's a wise conversion, both for a n2o or other type of F/I: More speed needs better stopping power


TRUE, but the best part of rear discs is the servicability, drums are a pain in the a$$
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red97sc2
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nefarious wrote:
[

TRUE, but the best part of rear discs is the servicability, drums are a pain in the a$$


I actually didn't tell the whole truth - THIS /\/\/\/\ is the REAL reason why I wish to upgrade. I'd much rather do a disk brake R&R than a drum Wink
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